Today is the last day of
Gunla. Many bands came to Swayambhu in the morning,
and there are picnics on the hill. Most of the day
was sunny.
...and
tomorrow is Teej.
For
three days Hindu women celebrate the great austerities
that Parvati underwent to catch Shiva's three
eyes...

Nepalese women undertake these rituals in
order to achieve what is desired by women everywhere - a
happy and productive marriage, good fortune, a long life for
their husbands, and the purification of their own bodies and
souls. Traditionally, the ritual of Teej is obligatory
for all Hindu married women and girls who have reached
puberty. Exception is made for the ones who are ill,
or physically unfit. In such circumstances, a priest
performs the rites. They feast, fast, and get high,
they dance in their red wedding saris, and finally they
imbibe their divine husbands' foot-bath.
Previously, this
ritual was observed by upper caste women primarily.
Nowadays, everybody wants to get in the act. Here we
have the Newari wife of our Maoist Prime Minister (a
brahmin) taking a turn at the dances of Teej, which could be
seen as a paean to patriarchy -
The first day of Teej is
called the "Dar Khane Din". On this day the women,
both married and unmarried, assemble at one place, in there
finest attires, and start dancing and singing devotional
songs. Amidst all this, the grand feast takes
place. The jollity often goes on till midnight, after
which the 24-hour fast commences. Some women go
without a morsel of food or a drop of water, while others
take liquid and fruit.
Gaily dressed women can be seen dancing and singing on the
street leading to Shiva temples. But the main activities
take place around the Pashupatinath temple where women
circumambulate the Lingam, the phallic symbol of the Lord,
offering flowers, sweets and coins.

The main puja (religious
ceremony) takes place with offerings of flowers, fruits
etc., made to Shiva and Parvati, beseeching Their blessing
upon husband and family. The important part of the puja is
the oil lamp which should be alight throughout the night,
for it is bad omen if it dies away.
The
ladies fast from midnight on until the morning of the next
day. On the first morning, they flock to Shiva temples,
usually wearing their wedding (red) saris. There, the women
perform pujas and take a holy dip in the river. After that,
they congregate in temple yards and open spaces, where they
dance and sing, replaying the dance of Parvati for Shiva.
On the following morning the
fast is broken by a ceremonial worship of one's husband,
which includes drinking (a few drops of) the water from
washing his feet. Then on the same day or the next,
depending on how the astrologers forecast it, the women
proceed again to river banks near temples, where they
undergo the elaborate purification rites, which Parvati
Herself performed on behalf of Her divine spouse.

The third day of the festival
is Rishi Panchami. After the completion of the
previous day's puja, women pay homage to various deities and
bathe with red mud found on the roots of the sacred Datiwan
bush, along with its leaves. This act of purification
is the final ritual of Teej, after which women are
considered absolved from all sins. The recent years
have witnessed alteration in the rituals, especially
concerning their severity, but its essence remains. No
matter how agonizing the fast may be Nepalese women have and
will always continue to have faith in the austerities of
Teej.

May all couples be
steadfast like Shiva and Parvati, and may singles find
their soul-mates...

In
the midst of Teej celebrations, the elephant-headed son of
Parvati and Shiva is worshiped.

Legend tells us that Brahma prayed to Ganesha
for success in His work of creation. When the moon
Goddess Chandrama, rebuked the Creator for praying to a mere
godling, Ganesha cursed her that anyone who looked upon her
would become a thief. It took the intercession of all
the other divinities to placate the offended Ganesha.
Now we can look upon the moon and bask in her gentle rays,
except on this night which is only auspicious for
robbers. Tonight people closet themselves in their
houses, shut the windows and doors and even stuff the cracks
so that the moonlight cannot penetrate inside with
disastrous consequences. Hopefully, it will be
overcast. The only people out are thieves and robbers
(and the police, who after all are part-time
extortionists...). A crook who doesn't get some loot
on this night is most unfortunate and will probably soon get
busted. So beware.
Here's wishing you
a happy and auspicious Ganesh Chaturthi ! May
all your obstacles melt like lemon-drops...
Love &
pranams,
Billy
