
This full moon is especially
dedicated to Shiva. Many pilgrimages to sacred Shiva shrines,
like the ice lingam at Amarnath (Kashmir) -

-and
Lake Gosainkunda (north of Kathmandu),

where
Shiva rested after having swallowed the deadly Hala-hala poison, and
thereby saved the world

This is also the day when Brahmins
and Kshatriyas change their sacred thread,

and when
protective strings are tied around the wrists of just about everybody,
regardless of caste or creed



Also on this day a delicious
sprouted 7 bean soup called Kwati is eaten -

The
following day is celebrated in Kathmandu Valley as Gai Jatra, 'the
procession of cows'. The Newars believe that this is the day when
Yama, the God of Death opens the gates of judgement. The soul of
anybody who died in the previous year, wanders a perilous journey till
this day. It is best assisted on its way by holding on to the
tail of a holy cow. Also, on this day, the cow will push the
gates of Yama's realm open, so that the soul can enter for
judgement. Young boys from families where somebody has died that
year, dress up as cows, and parade through the streets, thereby helping
the deceased to find their niche in the afterlife.




This is
also day for public displays of humor. In the streets, men
dressed in outrageous costumes perform skits burlesquing Nepalese
customs, institutions, the government, political leaders, etc.
Newspapers come up with humorous editions, printing April Fool's type
news, and many cartoons. This tradition goes back to the
XVIIIth century, when a Malla king, after failing in many ways to
console his queen grieving over the loss of their son, announced a
large reward for anybody who could bring a smile to the
queen's face. Droves of people turned out in front of the
palace dressed in outlandish costumes, lampooning all aspects of
Nepalese society. The queen laughed and the the practice became a
tradition.

On the third day after the full moon is
Mata-Ya. It is the equivalent of Gai Jatra for Newari Buddhists,
who find it undesirable to participate in the antics of Gai Jatra
during the sacred month of Gunla. The day is said to honor Lord
Buddha's victory over Mara who could not distract or tempt the Budddha
away from His meditations.
In Patan
there is a day-long procession of men, women, and children carrying
lighted lamps and candles to honor their dead.



They are
accompanied by many groups dressed in caste and neighborhood attire,
singing loudly praises of Lord Buddha, and playing on drums, cymbals
and flutes. In Kathmandu, Newari Buddhists stage their own
procession. It is also the last day to visit the bahals and see
the exhibitions of images and relics that occurs during the holy month
of Gunla.

The Kumari is taken out a palanquin to see
one of those exhibitions.
In the
evening, at dharamsalas all over the old city there is the singing of
religious songs.