This is the coldest time of year in Kathmandu.  The morning mists get thicker and thicker, and they lift later and later, depriving the Valley of a share of sunlight.  Still, tradition decrees that this is the best time of year to take cold baths in the river, especially for ladies.  To be fair, the gods also have to bathe.  Just a fewweeks ago, the bathing festival of Seto (White) Macchendranath in Asan Tole began.  Seto Macchendranath is one of the most popular deities here.  His origins are of course shrouded in the mists of time.  He is worshipped by both Buddhists (as Avalokiteshvara, the Boddhistva of Compassion), and Hindus (as Janmaraja/Yamaraja, (the Lord of Birth & Death).  There are two Macchendranaths in the Valley, the other (red) one lives across the Bagmati river in Patan.  This week, White Macchendranath is having his bathing festival.  The image is de-consecrated, removed from his shrine and put on a platform in the temple courtyard.  Priests throw pots of water over it and wash it down.

  snan

At the same time the entire temple courtyard is washed down and cleaned by the devotees.  If Macchendranath is pleased with the attentions given to him, the music, and offerings, then the rains will be plentiful for the spring planting of rice

As far as the rains go, this winter has hardly seen them.  Previously the fogs were denser, and we used to get winter rains every two weeks or so.  Thhis winter it has only rained twice.  Both times it was on the day when his erstwhile majesty returned to the Valley from a trip to India.  King returns - it rains.  Why don't they read the writing in the sky?

The month of Magh begins with Magh Shankranti (January 15) is a rare solar event in the traditional lunar calendar.  It marks the day when the sun is farthest from earth and changes its course towards the northern hemisphere bringing with it the promise of warmer weather soon.  On this day people throng to the rivers for a sacred bath.  For some this may only mean sprinkling a few drops of water on their heads.  For others it means a full dip in the icy waters. 

salinadi_snan

When the bathers return home, they feast with family and friends on the holiday dish of kichiri, a spicy stew of rice and lentils, combined with other holiday foods meant to impart good health and strength in the winter, such as sweet potatoes, spinach, and laddus, sweet balls of sesame seeds and brown sugar.

The previous month of Poush is considered unlucky, so most religious ceremonies and marriages are forbidden.  Magh is an auspicious month, and people rejoice in the belief that better times are around the corner.  During this month, beginning on the full-moon day, the Swasthani scripture is read publicly in many places for one month, until the next full-moon.  People gather to hear the ancient tale of how the goddess Parvati, daughter of Himalaya, wooed and landed Lord Shiva, catching his eye and winning his heart with her severe austerities.  At that time, Parvati prayed to goddess Swasthani for Shiva to be her husband.  This month, many Nepali (Hindu) women leave home and camp out on the banks of the rivers, especially at sacred confluences.  There they fast, pray, listen to the Swasthani, and take frequent ritual baths in the river. They do this to dispel any troubles that they may be experiencing in their family life, and to assure themselves of a good marriage.  Most women undergo this penance at least once in their lifetime.

The sun is moving north, warmer days ahead, it's time to usher in the spring.

Next comes the first day of spring - Vasant Panchami. (Jan 20)

vasanta

Vasanta - The God of Spring

In Nepal this day coincides with the holy-day of Saraswati, the Goddess of Learning.

saraswati_devi

On this day, students all over the country visit shrines of Saraswati, and beseech her blessings in their studies.  Small children are brought to the temple to scribble their first written letters

saraswati_puja

Thousands of students converge here on Saraswati Hill (behind Swayambhu) for the Goddess's blessing as well as the blessing of the Buddhist God of Wisdom, Manjushri.

           saraswati_onelinemanjasury online
 
Jimmy Thapa


Here's wishing you an abundance of wisdom on Saraswati Puja day, and a breath of spring on Vasant Panchami, which this year occurs on January 20th


Love & pranams, Billy

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