I woke
up this
morning with the sound of drumming and the tinkling of cymbals in my
ears - the unmistakable sound of Gunla, the month long period of dharma
activities, which is observed by Nepali Buddhists, particularly the
Jyapu farmers. It comes at a time when the main agricultural work
of planting the rice is over, and the farmers have free time to perform
religious practices.) This year, the monsoon was a little late,
but it has developed nicely.) This holy month also coincides with
the traditional period of the monsoon retreat, when the Buddha and his
monks did not wander about, but stayed in one place, practicing
meditation. It was practical for the sangha not to move around
during the rains, when the roads were muddy and there was
flooding. Also, the proliferation of insects and worms in the
soil made it difficult to walk without causing suffering to sentient
beings.
In Kathmandu most people go to Swayambhunath temple every morning. Many
start as early as 4:00 in the morning playing traditional musical
instruments like drums, flutes and cymbals.


This is a
holy month, meant for taking vows, for fasting, pilgrimages, penances
and abstinence from meat, alcohol etc. according to one's inclination. The festival starts fifteen
days prior to the full moon in
August or early September and lasts until the fifteen days that come
after.

On
Swayambhu, pilgrims spin the prayer wheels around
the hill and around the stupa. They pray before the images of Buddha,
light small butter lamps, and stop at the temple of Sitala Ajima, the
Goddess of Smallpox

The
visit to the stupa is always in the early morning and by mid- morning
most are back at their daily chores or at their jobs.
During
the month priests are invited to pray and recite the Buddha's
teachings. Devout Buddhists read from holy manuscripts and sing hymns.

Musical bands go
out on the streets, playing their drums and flutes. These bands are
well organized, and many are obliged by family traditions to play in such groups
during festivals.

In the evenings, hymns are sung
in the Buddhist temples (vihars). It is also
during Gunla that the popular Pancha Daan (Five offerings) ceremony
is held in Patan. This is the ceremony of offering the devout "begging
monks" five kinds of food. It commemorates the day Prince Siddhartha (who later became the
Buddha) started his life as an ascetic. Feasts are held in honor of the
revered monks. Large statues of Buddha and relics are displayed at the
important squares.

Mataya, the Newari festival of lights also takes place during
Gunla.


Also during Gunla, many Buddhist housewives make small
images of the Buddha from clay. They are said to make as many
as 125,000 of them by the end of the holy month. The images are
then taken in a procession to the river, while chanting hymns, and
then, discarded after completing the rituals. Many other special days,
such as Nag Panchami (August 14) and Janai Poorni/Gaijatra (August 24/25) fall
within this month, and they are celebrated simultaneously.
The day after Gunla is finally over, a massive picnic
takes place at the Swayambhunath hillside. A huge crowd of devotees
assembles here to spend the day enjoying an all day feasting and
merrymaking, accompanied by plenty of music.

love and pranams,
Billy